Lummi Island Kayak - Over night trip

Summer has come and gone so quickly! We just couldn't accept the oncoming fall without at least one more overnight kayak trip.  There are so many wonderful opportunities to paddle in the Pacific North West that it was quite a tough decision to pick a location for our last overnight of the year.  We decided to paddle close to home and so chose an overnight trip to Lummi Island in Washington State.

Gooseberry Point Boat Launch

We launched from Gooseberry Point, on the Lummi First Nation land, adjacent to the Lummi Island ferry.  We arrived to find that the beach was a beehive of activity as fishermen tested their skill against the elusive salmon.  Numerous onlookers were being encouraged to throw rocks at the seals as the fishermen tried to pull in their nets.  The seals seemed undeterred at all efforts to divert their attention as they appeared to be appreciating the salmon smorgasbord being provided.

Hale Passage

To begin the paddle we crossed Hale Passage toward the east side of Lummi Island.  The passage is notorious for wind, waves and funky currents so we were grateful to have a smooth and uneventful crossing.

We paddled along the eastern shores and enjoyed peeking at the numerous ocean front cottages.  They are all unique, character homes....you know they have stories to tell about endless summers spent on the beach.  We stopped for lunch at Inati Bay, home of the Bellingham Yacht Club.  Several sail boats were anchored  in the cove and their crews were enjoying picnics and campfires on the beach.  The gang welcomed us to join the yacht club and encouraged us to attend the Friday evening potlucks!

Inati Bay

After lunch and visit with the folk at Inati Bay we continued on to the Department of Natural Resources marine campsite on the southern end of Lummi Island at Real Bay.  This site is part of the Cascadia Marine Trail.  We were absolutely thrilled with the campsite.....gentle beach landings, primitive campsites complete with fire rings and picnic tables and a skookum outhouse (toilet paper included).  Life is good!  We set up camp and settled in for dinner and a glass or two of wine on the beach.  As we watched the campfire burn down we chatted about the day and pondered what tomorrow would hold.

Lummi Island Marine Campsite

Bare feet, Barefoot Wine and a room with a view....a perfect combination.

On a side note, we must give credit to WAKE - the Whatcom Association of Kayak Enthusiasts.  We learned that DNR no longer maintained the campsite, and in order to avoid closure WAKE volunteers stepped up and now steward the area.  Thank you ...and great work!

We weren't alone as we prepared to launch at low tide

Giggle of the day:

We had a very disorganized start to the morning!  We crossed the border and were merrily travelling along Highway I-5 when I asked Rob if he had packed the tent.  He went white....a sure sign that he had NOT packed the tent.  I tried to remain calm, and suggested that maybe we could make due with the tarp. He then asked me if I had packed the life jackets and spray skirts.  I turned white....a sure sign that I had NOT packed the life jackets and spray skirts.  We grudgingly turned around, went back to the border crossing  convinced the border guards that we were not smugglers - just scatter brains and did a redo!

Day Two - WAKE campsite to Gooseberry Point

The marine weather forecast for the day was not good...heavy winds, rain and a potential thunder storm were in the works.  We definitely did not want to be crossing Hale Passage in those kinds of conditions so we decided to get an early start and attempt to beat the incoming weather.  We were on the water by 7:30am.  What a spooky morning.  The water was like glass, but the fog was so thick that we could barely see 30 feet in front of us.   There was a stillness and quiet that at first was unsettling, but we soon came to enjoy.  Steep, heavily forested cliffs make up the south end of the island...ideal for another day of great critter viewing.  As we made our way around the southern tip of the island we crossed an eddy line and were bounced around as the ocean played with our boats.

Heavy fog as we depart from the campsite

We continued along the west side of the island and enjoyed the view of the rocky headlands.  Unfortunately, the fog still had not lifted so we were unable to see the islands to the west.  About mid way up the island the geography changes quite dramatically and we travelled along sandy beaches and again had terrific views of the ocean front homes. 

We were intrigued to see two parallel rows of huge fishing boats side by side,  Each boat had a man standing high on the mast, almost appearing to be at watch.  We joked about a pending pirate battle and were waiting to hear battle cries.

As we approached the north end of the island the wind picked up...we were also going against the current, so needless to say we were working hard and not going very far.  We rounded the bend and then fought our way to Lane Spit.  We decided to cross the passage at Lane Spit and attempt to angle our way back to Gooseberry Point.  It was quite a paddle, and as with all Weiss vacations we also encountered rain.  We finally completed the crossing wet, exhausted and happy to be on solid ground.

The rain picks up as we continue across Hale Passage

Back on dry land

Giggle of the day:

As you know there are many hazards to be faced when playing in the great outdoors.  During this trip we had to face boomers and bombers and debated the dangers of both.  Let us explain:

Boomer:  a boomer is a large rock that lies in wait just below the water line.  If not careful, you can hit the boomer before you notice it is even there.  Sometimes they can cause considerable damage to your kayak.

Bomber:  likely note a technical term, but a term we use when referring to those naughty seabirds who appear to communicate and fly in formation over us....dropping their bombs!

We encountered both on this trip.....we will leave it to your imagination as to which one of us was boomed and which one of us was bombed!

A bomber lines up his target......and begins the approach!

Map and Route Tips:

DNR campsite, maintained by WAKE - GPS  N 48 39.525 W 122 36.852

Nautical chart:  NOAA Chart 18424

Tide tables

Hale Passage currents

Larrabee State Park Kayak Day Trip

Although we are always seeking to find new routes, the day trip out of Larrabee State Park is one that we try and paddle each and every year.  It never disappoints!  The boat launch area is just outside historic Fairhaven, and one of our favourite breakfast spots -Skylark Hidden Cafe.  To access the state park you must follow Chuckanut Drive....one of the prettiest drives in the area, and even if you are not the least bit interested in paddling...you must drive the Chuckanut!

Mexico or Chuckanut Bay?

Incredible sandstone cliffs

This year the paddling gods were on our side as we arrived at the boat launch to find near perfect, well actually PERFECT conditions!   The water was calm, the sun was shining, and we had the boat launch to ourselves.  We excitedly loaded our gear and began to paddle out of the cove.

Boat Launch at low tide - Larrabee 

The water clarity and visibility was unbelievable.  It felt like we could see to the deep dark bottom of the sea.  Of course, we knew this meant that we were in for a full day of fantastic critter viewing!  We marvelled at the variety of life we saw:  water jellies, lions mane jelly, moon jellies, a variety of anemones, sand dollars,  barnacles, red rock crab, purple shore crab, bat stars, leather stars, sun stars, pacific blood star, purple star, sunflower star, giant pink star, Red Sea urchin, and many more we simply could not identify.  We are looking forward to the day that Emma, our aspiring marine biologist will help us correctly identify those we miss.

Underwater Starfish gathering

Jellies lead the way

Sand dollars

It was a very slow leisurely paddle as we explored the amazing sandstone cliffs.  The cliffs have been weathered and battered by wind, ocean and rain and as a result they are a visual feast of smoothly rounded shapes and intriguing patterns...curves, crevices, and holes!

Sand stone - sculpted by Mother Nature

After travelling along the sandstone cliffs, we crossed open water to visit a Nature Sanctuary.  This small island in Chuckanut Bay is a terrific spot to stop for snack and a stretch.  It is a protected area and home to many bird nesting sites.  We enjoyed some beach combing and tide pool viewing.

Coffee Break at the Nature Sanctuary

On our return trip we once again poked and plodded our way along the shoreline.  It is amazing how the ebb and flow of the tides can dramatically change your view and at times you feel like you are paddling a whole new stretch of water.   We found a wonderful secluded cove to land and scrambled up  the cliff to a fabulous picnic spot over looking the ocean.  The view was indescribable.  Reluctantly, we looked at the time and knew it was time to return to the boat launch and head home.  Thank you Larrabee for another awesome paddle....see you next year!

Lunch break with a view

Giggle of the day:

After lunch, as we paddled back to the boat launch, we noticed a creature in the water up ahead.  It looked like a seal, but there was something not quite right.  We paddled closer only to discover a new species....a DOG FISH.  Yes...here we were sandstone cliffs to our right and endless ocean to the left and a dog in front of us.  It was dog paddling like crazy and breathing heavily.  We were quite concerned, and tried to get closer to corral it to shore.  However, every time we drew near the dog would try to jump on board one of our kayaks.  It was quite a big, sturdy dog, and we were concerned that he would capsize one of us.  We managed to get him to rest on a paddle for a bit and then he followed us to a section of shore where he could climb out.  We never did discover the dog's owner or where he came from....but, we were able to rest easy knowing that we had managed to accompany him to shore.

The elusive DOG FISH

Map and Route tips:

There is a small fee to park and launch at the Larrabee Boat Launch.

White Water Kayak School - Clearwater, B.C.

As August was quickly drawing to a close, we decided to find something new and different to try as a way to both celebrate and say goodbye to the summer.  Adam and Emma had the last week of August off (unfortunately, Ian was scheduled to work) so we chatted about different trips we would like to take as a family......Cape Scott, the Oregon Coast, Bowron Lakes Circuit, West Coast trail,  Galapagos (that will have to wait) etc.  During our lengthy trip discussions and research we stumbled upon the Liquid Lifestyles Kayak school in Clearwater BC.  SOLD!  We decided to try our hand at white water kayaking.

Our adventure began with a road trip, 5.5 hours to Clearwater.   Like all road trips we light heartily fought over seats, music, rest breaks ...and just like old times we pestered Rob with the "are we there yet chant and enjoyed a lively round of punch buggy!"  Ah - the memories of family road trips!

We had reserved a campsite at the North Thompson River Provincial Park.  This is a terrific little site, situated on the North Thompson river directly off highway 5, only a few kilometres from Clearwater and a fantastic place to base camp while exploring the Clearwater area and Wells Gray Provincial Park.   We were in luck as the campfire ban had been lifted, so after we arrived, we set up our tents and enjoyed a terrific evening around the campfire.  Of course, being a Weiss vacation, we were also treated to heavy rain throughout the night and woke to very wet, and chilly campsite.

Campsite over looking the river

Morning came quickly, and we all were up bright and early wondering what the day would hold.  We travelled to the Liquid Lifestyles office, met our fantastic guide Bryn ....signed the waivers and before you knew it, Bryn had set us up with wetsuits, life jackets, paddles, boats and helmets.

The course began with a morning on Dutch Lake as Bryn started with the basics:

• launching from the dock
• wet exits
• breath control
• T-rescues
• low bracing

Heads up on Dutch Lake

Emma working on the T-rescue....she gone!

The laughs were plentiful that morning.  Adam's spray skirt was really tight - so he struggled every time he had to wet exit and get back in his boat.  We teased him relentlessly each and every time he had to fight with the spray skirt.  By the end of the morning, Bryn was teaching Adam how to roll....Adam was catching on quickly....we were sure it was simply to avoid having to wet exit and deal with the spray skirt and our teasing.

Bryn works with Adam to learn how to roll

Rob won the prize for the first dump......it was a sharp right turn....that ended up with Rob taking the swim of shame to shore!

Emma was such a rock star....she amazed us all as she quickly learned to stay calm while upside down in her boat, patiently holding her breath as she waited for a T-rescue.  Later that afternoon, when we were on the river, Emma dumped in a section of white water.  I watched in pure amazement as she was being swept downstream, she calmly tapped on her boat and waited for the T-rescue.  Later, I asked her how she managed to stay so calm.  She gave me a cute little smile and said, "I knew Bryn would come."  ....just that simple!

Lunch break over looking the river

We enjoyed a terrific lunch sitting on the cliff over looking the river and the stretch of water we were to paddle that afternoon.  We were all feeling really excited at the thought of hitting the river.  We finished our lunch, jumped in the van and set off for our put-in.  Once we arrived, Bryn casually hoisted his boat onto his shoulder said, "this way" and set off down a cliff to the river's edge.  Rob and I looked at each other in disbelief.  To fully understand you must try and picture Bryn.  He was probably 6'2" with shoulders almost as wide - a Paul Bunyan type of build.  Of course, Adam and Emma set off after him without blinking so Rob and I wished each other luck and followed along.  I can not tell you how challenging it was to slip and slide our way along the trail, fumbling with our kayaks and paddles!  Definitely a young mans game.  

Follow the leader down to the river bank

We arrived at the river bank relatively unscathed and Bryn began to take us through our paces.  We practiced a few more t-rescues and then began to learn how to ferry across the river and eddy turn.  The day ended with Adam, Rob and I going for a very long swim beside our boats!   Emma managed to master that last eddy turn and was able to stay in her boat and  paddle her way down the river.

Emma takes a break

The day was physically demanding and we all arrived back at the campsite, battered, bruised, exhausted and LOVING IT!  What a day.  We really have to give our guide credit...Bryn was kind, and incredibly patient  - yet managed to individually challenge each and every one of us.

Adam attempts to surf

The next morning we awoke again to the sound of rain falling on the tents.  Not that it mattered much...we knew we would be wet for the rest of the day.  We arrived at the kayak office to the sight of the guides jump starting the vans.  We tried to not take the sight of the dead van as an omen for what lay ahead.  Bryn had planned a full day on the river... and a section of river that would be a bit more challenging for us.  We were all excited and nervous at the same time.

....creative entry point....

We continued to practice our eddy turns, on faster moving water and YES...we again practiced t-rescues and in my case long distance swims!  Adam really improved and was trying to master the roll and even surf a couple of waves.  As we came near a section of river called Swimmers Alley, Bryn took away our paddles.  He said he couldn't trust us with them!  The golden rule was to never loose your paddle - and to Bryn's dismay, we frequently found ourselves on a river bank without a boat or a paddle watching Bryn paddling like crazy to rescue our gear.  We made our way through swimmers alley with arms flapping like bird wings..and learning to trust in the river and the boat.  A great lesson!

Rob takes a break in the eddy

Bryn was planning to challenge us with a class 3 rapid in the afternoon.  I was completely exhausted and didn't want to hold the group up, so I suggested they continue without me.  I was quite happy to wait at the take out point - safe and dry.  The gang wouldn't hear anything of it, so Bryn suggested a double inflatable for the afternoon and Emma graciously agreed to give up her boat and join me in the inflatable.  He teased us and nicknamed us the GOON SQUAD.

The Goon Squad heading to the river

Rob and Adam bravely tackled the rapids.  The waves were really big (at least to the inexperienced paddler!)  Adam successfully managed an eddy turn into the river and then as he hit the first hole, we lost sight of him .... the next thing we knew he was swimming.  Rob didn't last much longer before the river took him as well.  Rob and Adam must have swam at least 1/2 km before they could get out of the river and back into their boats. 

Emma and I giggled as our double inflatable bounced and turned its way down the river..with Bryn yelling at the Goon Squad to get left..what a ride!

We managed to make our way through a series of class 1 and 2 rapids.  The calm sections of water allowed us time to take in the views of the beautiful canyon and river....spectacular.  We arrived at the take out point, tired, wet and happy.....we had all thoroughly enjoyed our time on the river and each of us had been pushed and challenged!

A great day on the river.....

Giggle of the day:

Bryn did a great job of teaching us the importance of checking your gear and ensuring you have everything with you before you hit the river.  When we arrived at the put in point we unloaded the van only to discover that we had everything EXCEPT our guide's paddle.  (we wont say who was responsible for loading the paddles)  We learned the biggest lesson of all.....what it means to be up a creek without a paddle!


Reflections:

As I reflect on our holiday, I am forced to admit that I was the weak link!  I am really comfortable in the water and love paddling....however, there was something about being upside down in the lake or on the river  with your spray skirt on that terrified me.  I was truly surprised at my reaction....I knew and logically understood that I only needed to hold my breath for a few seconds and help would be there, but the millisecond I flipped my boat, every instinct in my body SCREAMED at me to GET OUT!  It was an irrational fear that I could not conquer.....I am determined to try again next summer and win this battle, because it was such a thrill to run the river!  It was also an interesting reflection time for me.  For years Rob and I have ventured out with the kids and at times had wondered if we were pushing them too hard or putting them at risk.  However, deep down we knew that we could take care of them and keep them safe.  This week I came to realize that I must now depend on them.....a passing of the torch so to speak.  As I watched Adam and Emma fearlessly tackle the skills and the river I felt both proud and humbled!  What a trip!

Map: