Cycling the BC Parkway to Central Valley - Graffitti, cowboys and spawning salmon!

Exploring the lower mainland by bike is always a treat, and today was no exception.  We decided to begin our trip at the New Westminster Quay and head into Vancouver via the BC Parkway.  This multi-use urban trail is 26 kilometers long and follows the Expo Skytrain line from Surrey, to New West, South Burnaby and into Vancouver.

 The heavy fog that had blanketed the lower mainland for days magically lifted and we were treated to a bright, crisp, sunny fall day.  The colours of the leaves were magnificent and we enjoyed the sound of them crunching beneath our tires as we pedaled along.

View of the Fraser River near New Westminster Quay

Signs on dedicated bike paths....AWESOME!

It was another day of contrasts - industry along the river and rail lines, graffiti, high end condos and homelessness, yachts, shopping malls, sports fields, restaurants, bars and people, people, people!  We saw it all.  It truly is remarkable that in a few short kilometres a cyclist travelling along the urban trails can pass through numerous municipalities and experience both the highs and the lows of our communities.

Anything in a size seven?

Brilliant Fall colours

Approaching downtown Vancouver

Was there a George Clooney sighting here?

We cycled along the waterfront to English Bay and Stanley Park enjoying the Sunday morning sights and sounds.  As we approached Canada Place, Rob noticed DeDutch Pannekoek House conveniently located right on the seawall.  The breakfast menu seemed to have his name on it so we had to stop.  Rob simply could not MASH one inch further.  It was such a warm day that we were able to sit outside on the patio and enjoy our breakfast as we watched the float planes take off and land.

We decided to experiment and try a new route out of downtown.  We followed the Dunsmuir bike lane to Adanac and then began the climb out of Vancouver toward Simon Fraser University.  We were confident that we would be able to find our way back to the Central Valley Greenway....and after a few stops and starts that's exactly what we did!

Heading uphill towards Simon Fraser on the Frances Union Bikeway

The highlight of the day was on the Central Valley Greenway. As we entered the park there was a sign warning folk to be cautious as there was a bear in the area.  We thought that was a bit unusual...after all we were in the middle of Burnaby.  However,  as we pedaled along we could hear splashing coming from the stream below and quickly deduced why bears might be hanging out!  The salmon were putting on a show.  We hopped off our bikes and made our way down to the stream to watch the epic battle.  Salmon were coming up the stream in waves as they fought their way against the current.  It was inspiring to watch.  Credit to the restoration crew who has been working to restore the habitat!

Salmon fighting their way up Still Creek to spawn

Steps to help the salmon along their way

As usual the day ended far too quickly!  To celebrate the salmon sightings we stopped for a gelato....chocolate of course!  Another perfect day and perfect ride.

Guilt free Gelato break....life is good!

Giggle of the day:

As we came to a red light on Main Street near Science World, a young gentleman pulled up beside us and exclaimed "HOWDY PARTNER!".  He was dressed in full cowboy gear....boots, hat, jeans, vest and sheriff's badge.  (in fairness, we were in downtown Vancouver AND it was the weekend before Halloween).  The young man pulled a 26 ounce bottle of scotch out of his bike basket and asked if we would like a swig.  How generous!  We did notice that half the bottle was missing. We weren't sure if he was on his way to or from the party....or just keeping the party going.  Before we could ask, he gave a hoot and a yippee and was back on his way.  

Map and Route tips:

City of Vancouver  http://vancouver.ca/streets-transportation/cycling-routes-maps-and-trip-planner.aspx

BC Parkway  http://www.translink.ca/en/Getting-Around/Cycling/BC-Parkway.aspx

Central Valley Greenway   http://www.translink.ca/en/Getting-Around/Cycling/Central-Valley-Greenway.aspx

Burnaby bike Routes  http://www.burnaby.ca/Page386.aspx

Harrison River Kayak Day Trip

It seems hard to believe, but once again we were blessed with amazing weather for our day trip to Harrison Hot Springs.  Paddling in the fall always feels like a bonus, and when you are lucky enough to have the sun on your face and the wind on your back, it seems to feel extra special.  Today was such a day!

We launched from the public beach area near the Harrison Hot Springs Resort and Spa and marveled at the view of the Breckenridge Glacier.  It was picture perfect with the sun hitting the snow capped mountain peak.  

Launch site - Harrison Hot Springs

View of the Breckenridge Glacier

Harrison Hot Springs

We paddled across the lake and made our way to the mouth of the Harrison river.  The Harrison River (18 kilometers) is a short but amazing river. The first designated Salmon Stronghold in Canada, it is the only area in BC to host all five species of salmon and steel head trout. The salmon habitat in the Harrison Basin is an example of a crucial salmon system that has somehow remained pristine.  This abundance of salmon draws in 1000's of Bald Eagles every fall making the Harrison River the 3rd largest gathering place of Bald Eagles in North America.  

As we made our way down the river - an easy float as the current was with us, we enjoyed the peace and serenity of the area.  As we floated in silence, we could hear the fish jumping and splashing around us.  I suppose that is the outdoor equivalent of hearing a pin drop.  The river was an incredible green colour - reminding us of the glacier lakes we have visited in the Rockies near Banff and Lake Louise and the fall colours were spectacular.

Glacier fed river - amazing colours!

Leaves starting to turn - symphony of colour!

We landed on a small beach and climbed up the rock to get a view of the river below.  Perfect!  Further downstream lies Chehalis Flats.  The largest concentration of bald eagles ever recorded was documented in this area.  Work is underway to protect this area and create awareness of  Bald Eagle Etiquette for the Chehalis Flats and Harrison Mills area.

Rest stop - with a view

It was time to turn around and face the paddle back against the wind and the current....our easy float was over.  The wind had picked up so we took advantage of our friend Eddy to take brief rest breaks as we paddled back to the lake.  Curious seals followed us back - it is always a treat to see the seals so far upstream and a sure sign that the fishing is good!  We watched in fascination as a seal battled with his dinner - we were unsuccessful in getting a photo of the epic battle, but we can assure you that the seal won!

Giggle of the Day:

The sight of the kayaks always seems to attract on-lookers, especially tourists visiting Canada, and today was no exception.  Our van was parked on the main street directly opposite an outdoor cafe.  There were several groups of tourists sitting outside watching us load up the gear.  We overheard one man say, "How the h### are they going to get those boats on top of that van?"  ...followed by "will you look at that!"  followed by "Well, I'll be "darned."  Of course, we pretended to be cool and calm on the outside, but inside I was praying I would not drop the boat in front of such an enthusiastic and curious audience!

Map and Route Tips:

Lummi Island Kayak - Over night trip

Summer has come and gone so quickly! We just couldn't accept the oncoming fall without at least one more overnight kayak trip.  There are so many wonderful opportunities to paddle in the Pacific North West that it was quite a tough decision to pick a location for our last overnight of the year.  We decided to paddle close to home and so chose an overnight trip to Lummi Island in Washington State.

Gooseberry Point Boat Launch

We launched from Gooseberry Point, on the Lummi First Nation land, adjacent to the Lummi Island ferry.  We arrived to find that the beach was a beehive of activity as fishermen tested their skill against the elusive salmon.  Numerous onlookers were being encouraged to throw rocks at the seals as the fishermen tried to pull in their nets.  The seals seemed undeterred at all efforts to divert their attention as they appeared to be appreciating the salmon smorgasbord being provided.

Hale Passage

To begin the paddle we crossed Hale Passage toward the east side of Lummi Island.  The passage is notorious for wind, waves and funky currents so we were grateful to have a smooth and uneventful crossing.

We paddled along the eastern shores and enjoyed peeking at the numerous ocean front cottages.  They are all unique, character homes....you know they have stories to tell about endless summers spent on the beach.  We stopped for lunch at Inati Bay, home of the Bellingham Yacht Club.  Several sail boats were anchored  in the cove and their crews were enjoying picnics and campfires on the beach.  The gang welcomed us to join the yacht club and encouraged us to attend the Friday evening potlucks!

Inati Bay

After lunch and visit with the folk at Inati Bay we continued on to the Department of Natural Resources marine campsite on the southern end of Lummi Island at Real Bay.  This site is part of the Cascadia Marine Trail.  We were absolutely thrilled with the campsite.....gentle beach landings, primitive campsites complete with fire rings and picnic tables and a skookum outhouse (toilet paper included).  Life is good!  We set up camp and settled in for dinner and a glass or two of wine on the beach.  As we watched the campfire burn down we chatted about the day and pondered what tomorrow would hold.

Lummi Island Marine Campsite

Bare feet, Barefoot Wine and a room with a view....a perfect combination.

On a side note, we must give credit to WAKE - the Whatcom Association of Kayak Enthusiasts.  We learned that DNR no longer maintained the campsite, and in order to avoid closure WAKE volunteers stepped up and now steward the area.  Thank you ...and great work!

We weren't alone as we prepared to launch at low tide

Giggle of the day:

We had a very disorganized start to the morning!  We crossed the border and were merrily travelling along Highway I-5 when I asked Rob if he had packed the tent.  He went white....a sure sign that he had NOT packed the tent.  I tried to remain calm, and suggested that maybe we could make due with the tarp. He then asked me if I had packed the life jackets and spray skirts.  I turned white....a sure sign that I had NOT packed the life jackets and spray skirts.  We grudgingly turned around, went back to the border crossing  convinced the border guards that we were not smugglers - just scatter brains and did a redo!

Day Two - WAKE campsite to Gooseberry Point

The marine weather forecast for the day was not good...heavy winds, rain and a potential thunder storm were in the works.  We definitely did not want to be crossing Hale Passage in those kinds of conditions so we decided to get an early start and attempt to beat the incoming weather.  We were on the water by 7:30am.  What a spooky morning.  The water was like glass, but the fog was so thick that we could barely see 30 feet in front of us.   There was a stillness and quiet that at first was unsettling, but we soon came to enjoy.  Steep, heavily forested cliffs make up the south end of the island...ideal for another day of great critter viewing.  As we made our way around the southern tip of the island we crossed an eddy line and were bounced around as the ocean played with our boats.

Heavy fog as we depart from the campsite

We continued along the west side of the island and enjoyed the view of the rocky headlands.  Unfortunately, the fog still had not lifted so we were unable to see the islands to the west.  About mid way up the island the geography changes quite dramatically and we travelled along sandy beaches and again had terrific views of the ocean front homes. 

We were intrigued to see two parallel rows of huge fishing boats side by side,  Each boat had a man standing high on the mast, almost appearing to be at watch.  We joked about a pending pirate battle and were waiting to hear battle cries.

As we approached the north end of the island the wind picked up...we were also going against the current, so needless to say we were working hard and not going very far.  We rounded the bend and then fought our way to Lane Spit.  We decided to cross the passage at Lane Spit and attempt to angle our way back to Gooseberry Point.  It was quite a paddle, and as with all Weiss vacations we also encountered rain.  We finally completed the crossing wet, exhausted and happy to be on solid ground.

The rain picks up as we continue across Hale Passage

Back on dry land

Giggle of the day:

As you know there are many hazards to be faced when playing in the great outdoors.  During this trip we had to face boomers and bombers and debated the dangers of both.  Let us explain:

Boomer:  a boomer is a large rock that lies in wait just below the water line.  If not careful, you can hit the boomer before you notice it is even there.  Sometimes they can cause considerable damage to your kayak.

Bomber:  likely note a technical term, but a term we use when referring to those naughty seabirds who appear to communicate and fly in formation over us....dropping their bombs!

We encountered both on this trip.....we will leave it to your imagination as to which one of us was boomed and which one of us was bombed!

A bomber lines up his target......and begins the approach!

Map and Route Tips:

DNR campsite, maintained by WAKE - GPS  N 48 39.525 W 122 36.852

Nautical chart:  NOAA Chart 18424

Tide tables

Hale Passage currents

Larrabee State Park Kayak Day Trip

Although we are always seeking to find new routes, the day trip out of Larrabee State Park is one that we try and paddle each and every year.  It never disappoints!  The boat launch area is just outside historic Fairhaven, and one of our favourite breakfast spots -Skylark Hidden Cafe.  To access the state park you must follow Chuckanut Drive....one of the prettiest drives in the area, and even if you are not the least bit interested in paddling...you must drive the Chuckanut!

Mexico or Chuckanut Bay?

Incredible sandstone cliffs

This year the paddling gods were on our side as we arrived at the boat launch to find near perfect, well actually PERFECT conditions!   The water was calm, the sun was shining, and we had the boat launch to ourselves.  We excitedly loaded our gear and began to paddle out of the cove.

Boat Launch at low tide - Larrabee 

The water clarity and visibility was unbelievable.  It felt like we could see to the deep dark bottom of the sea.  Of course, we knew this meant that we were in for a full day of fantastic critter viewing!  We marvelled at the variety of life we saw:  water jellies, lions mane jelly, moon jellies, a variety of anemones, sand dollars,  barnacles, red rock crab, purple shore crab, bat stars, leather stars, sun stars, pacific blood star, purple star, sunflower star, giant pink star, Red Sea urchin, and many more we simply could not identify.  We are looking forward to the day that Emma, our aspiring marine biologist will help us correctly identify those we miss.

Underwater Starfish gathering

Jellies lead the way

Sand dollars

It was a very slow leisurely paddle as we explored the amazing sandstone cliffs.  The cliffs have been weathered and battered by wind, ocean and rain and as a result they are a visual feast of smoothly rounded shapes and intriguing patterns...curves, crevices, and holes!

Sand stone - sculpted by Mother Nature

After travelling along the sandstone cliffs, we crossed open water to visit a Nature Sanctuary.  This small island in Chuckanut Bay is a terrific spot to stop for snack and a stretch.  It is a protected area and home to many bird nesting sites.  We enjoyed some beach combing and tide pool viewing.

Coffee Break at the Nature Sanctuary

On our return trip we once again poked and plodded our way along the shoreline.  It is amazing how the ebb and flow of the tides can dramatically change your view and at times you feel like you are paddling a whole new stretch of water.   We found a wonderful secluded cove to land and scrambled up  the cliff to a fabulous picnic spot over looking the ocean.  The view was indescribable.  Reluctantly, we looked at the time and knew it was time to return to the boat launch and head home.  Thank you Larrabee for another awesome paddle....see you next year!

Lunch break with a view

Giggle of the day:

After lunch, as we paddled back to the boat launch, we noticed a creature in the water up ahead.  It looked like a seal, but there was something not quite right.  We paddled closer only to discover a new species....a DOG FISH.  Yes...here we were sandstone cliffs to our right and endless ocean to the left and a dog in front of us.  It was dog paddling like crazy and breathing heavily.  We were quite concerned, and tried to get closer to corral it to shore.  However, every time we drew near the dog would try to jump on board one of our kayaks.  It was quite a big, sturdy dog, and we were concerned that he would capsize one of us.  We managed to get him to rest on a paddle for a bit and then he followed us to a section of shore where he could climb out.  We never did discover the dog's owner or where he came from....but, we were able to rest easy knowing that we had managed to accompany him to shore.

The elusive DOG FISH

Map and Route tips:

There is a small fee to park and launch at the Larrabee Boat Launch.